I’ve visited Mississippi a few times in recent years, and while there, I always seek out one thing: catfish. There are some great catfish dishes in Chicago, like Virtue’s blackened take, but the closest I’ve found to the style I enjoy in the Magnolia State is at Cleo’s. Kristen Harper, who named the restaurant for her Clarksdale, Mississippi–born grandmother, has been serving Southern classics for 12 years, first as a caterer, then at a brick-and-mortar in Bronzeville, which she opened in 2019. She added a Loop location in 2022 and a Lake View one in December.

Her menu centers on fried chicken and catfish, both of which I recommend. But the catfish, with its cornmeal crust and Creole spice, is special. It’s available a variety of ways: topped with crab and rémoulade, drizzled with hot honey, or, my favorite, served over grits with comeback sauce, a tangy Mississippi condiment ($27). It comes with what might be Chicago’s best cornbread, which is gilded with a caramelly honey butter. Portions are huge — two can split a main and sides of baked mac and cheese and green beans ($7 each).

While the other locations are carryout focused, the Lake View spot can seat 100 across indoor tables and the patio. That makes it ideal for gathering with pals over a Mississippi feast.