The dining room of Stephen Gillanders’s restaurant has never felt particularly stuffy, but perching yourself atop one of the velvet stools in the bar delivers an additional dose of conviviality: The bartenders are quick with both the one-liners and your order of lobster dumplings, and you’ll have an easier time buttonholing sommelier Charles Ford for intel on the wine list’s hidden gems. 1239 W. 18th St., Pilsen,