Frites, Mussels, and Belgian Beer Come to the Loop
Fisk & Co. is slated to open in April, bringing monkfish liver mousse—”the foie gras of the sea”—to its fish charcuterie selection.
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Portsmith’s Yellowtail Snapper Is Dazzling
The Dana Hotel and Spa’s seafood spot makes this dish shine.
Leviathan Is a Nautical Cubbyhole in Raucous River North
Come for the sea monster motif. Stay for the potent cocktails.
Best New Restaurants
This year’s top spots are attracting neighborhood crowds with audacious cuisine that used to be the domain of posh prix fixe temples.
A New West Loop Beauty
Studio K’s Karen Herold describes her lavish design for our No. 2 pick, Bellemore.
Overserved
Reflections on a curious fine-dining trend
Raisu
Above:Bluefin tuna sashimi, sweet ebi nigiri, mixed sashimi At this sparely furnished restaurant on an unremarkable stretch of Irving Park Road, chef Simon Liew (Kai Zan) offers both a repudiation of overelaborate, overwrought sushi creations and a brilliant reboot of them. On the one hand, Liew is a purist. The star of the show here … Read more
Pizzeria Bebu
Above:Meatball pizza Chicago probably didn’t need another pizzeria, but we’re happy to wedge in one that’s as impressive as Bebu. Its pies emerge from the gas-fired oven chewy and char-speckled, airy yet sturdy enough to support toppings such as crumbles of housemade fennel-flecked sausage or drizzles of honey. They make for great takeout fare, but … Read more
The Delta
Welcome to the best party in Wicker Park. On a comparatively sleepy stretch of North Avenue, this homage to the Mississippi Delta is so packed it’s practically shaking, filled with men in ironic mustaches and women in ironic wire-rimmed glasses, all of them nodding along to hip-hop and sipping fruity vodka punches from shareable cut-glass … Read more
BLVD
Above left:Lamb loin BLVD presents itself as a fantasy from a bygone time and place—1950s Hollywood, specifically—but where a lesser restaurant might have veered kitschy, this one smartly went in a more opulent direction. The space is exultant in velvet upholstery and crystal chandeliers and is anchored by an impressive staircase and a brass-trimmed bar. … Read more