The once-a-month-or-so prix fixe ($165) hosted by Trevor Teich (L2O, Acadia) at a commissary kitchen turns the risk inherent in a pop-up meal—of wasting your money on an unknown quantity—into an exquisite reward: a haute dinner with dishes far more self-assured (a hollowed-out round of potato filled with chicken liver mousse to accompany pork belly in one course, a white chocolate mousse infused with pine flavor in another) than the scrappy setup suggests.

327 N. Bell Ave.,