It’s no easy feat to stand out among the numerous ramen joints that are overrunning Chicago these days, but this new Wicker Park noodle shop does so with a simple philosophy: Less is more. Its yuzu shio ramen ($13), chock-full of delicate chuka noodles, has a clean, citrus-forward broth, a reprieve from the fatty richness that often overwhelms ramen dishes.

1482 N. Milwaukee Ave.,