A few weeks into the pandemic shutdown, this acclaimed Southern spot in Hyde Park was selling up to 600 takeout orders a day, sating Chicago’s appetite for chef Erick Williams’s famed short ribs, catfish, and dirty rice. But then, in mid-April, Williams suspended his carryout operation in order to fully devote his skeleton staff’s efforts to making meals for medical personnel at Stroger Hospital and the University of Chicago Medical Center. “Of all the people that we could take care of, where could we make the most impact? This was it,” Williams says.