
Foie’d Logic
Chicago’s city council repealed the infamous two-year-old foie gras ban on Wednesday by a vote of 37 to 6, thus ending one of the stranger episodes in local politics. Alderman Tom Tunney (44th ward), along with cosponsors Emma Mitts (37th) and Bernard Stone (50th), introduced the repeal with no debate, reportedly over the strenuous objections of Joe Moore (49th), who, according to the Sun-Times, said it would be “the first time in my 17 years on the city council that a matter was...
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Mixteco Grill (1601 W. Montrose Ave.; 773-868-1601), a 35-seat BYO restaurant named for a region of Oaxaca and the indigenous people who inhabit it, opened last week—and we’re smitten. “The food there is the only food that is 100 percent authentic Mexican,” says Raul Arreola, the chef/owner. “No influence of other food. No Mayan. No Spanish. No French.” Arreola, a Mexico City native, put in 11 years at Frontera Grill, and ascended to sous-chef at
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Then and Now
A full Dish column is coming tomorrow, but first we wanted to direct you to two terrific stories from our upcoming June issue. One is Burned, a dramatic narrative by Jennifer Tanaka on Grant Achatz’s brave and frightening days since his diagnosis with oral cancer. The other is Dennis Ray Wheaton’s From There to Alinea, a thoughtful examination and comparison of Achatz’s current stunner with the place where he came of age years ago: Napa Valley’s legendary French Laundry.
The Tale of the TacoSeven great tacos that make a celebration seem in order |
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See Marcus CookMarcus Samuelsson lets his food do the talking. |
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Trend: Gluten-Free GoodiesThe offerings at Rose’s WheatFree Bakery & Café may be gluten-free, peanut-free, casein-free, corn-syrup-free, and trans-fat-free, but they obligingly leave in the most important element: flavor. |
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Dining TidbitsFor April 2008: Park 52, Schwa, Haussmann Brasserie, Curio Cafe |
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Dining Out: Olive BranchesOne's Greek, one's Turkish, and never the twain shall meet. But two smart neighborhood spots bring out the glory of their hallowed Mediterranean ground. |
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Chefs on the Grill - Carol WallackCarol Wallack reminisces about how a bad beach day changed her life from surfer girl to carrot peeler to restaurant doyenne of Sola. 3868 N. Lincoln Ave. 773-327-3868 |
10 places everyone's talking about—and dining at—in May. In order of heat:
TAKASHI We know at least two other fine restaurants occupied this Bucktown space in recent years. We just can't remember their names. 1952 N. Damen Ave.; 773-772-6170
SIXTEEN Two seconds after lunch service was announced, the noon hour booked up for weeks. Trump International Hotel & Tower Chicago, 401 N. Wabash Ave.; 312-588-8030
TALLULAH Is it the lobster-stuffed deviled eggs? The spicy buffalo tartare? The decadently rich sweetbreads? Can't be the street parking. 4539 N. Lincoln Ave.; 773-942-7585
SCHWA Talk about comebacks. You'd think Michael Jordan had dusted off his old jersey. 1466 N. Ashland Ave.; 773-252-1466
MERCAT A LA PLANXA The worst entryway in restaurant history—through a cramped lounge, up a curvy staircase—hasn't stopped traffic to this tapas lair. Blackstone Hotel, 638 S. Michigan Ave.; 312-765-0524
FAHRENHEIT Any restaurant that successfully deconstructs mole and incorporates a beignet is worth a drive to St. Charles. 1890 W. Main St., St. Charles; 630-444-1350 *CLOSED: Read our update here
UNCOMMON GROUND The real action on Devon has shifted to this warm, friendly spot. 1401 W. Devon Ave.; 773-465-9801
UNION PIZZERIA Campagnola's pizza-obsessed offshoot has patrons lining up to worship at the altar of the wood-burning oven. 1245 Chicago Ave., Evanston; 847-475-2400
GAETANO'S Gaetano Di Benedetto, the talent at La Piazza, takes his tricks a couple of blocks away; west suburbanites follow. 7636 W. Madison St., Forest Park; 708-366-4010
ROCKSTAR DOGS A stripper pole and a footlong Tommy Lee tribute dog tell you where this East Village joint's heart is: in its pants. 801 N. Ashland Ave.; 312-421-2364
Recipe FileSalsa Verde and Salsa Roja at Fonda del Mar |