Luxurious white tablecloths, a sleek glass-topped communal table, and über-modern barstools say “ristorante” more than “pizzeria,” and plenty of avant-garde pasta, carne, and pesce dishes stream out of Tocco’s kitchen. But the two timeworn wood-burning ovens behind the bar also have a story to tell. It’s the story of chewy-centered, delicately scorched crusts that refine and define themselves as they push toward their bubbled collars. And the moral is this: The best thin-crust pizza is so simple it’s otherworldly. 1266 N. Milwaukee Ave., 773-687-8895