They don’t make them like this anymore: the low-ceilinged, wood-paneled, Christmas-light-covered dining room; the vinyl-topped barstools filled with old guys who bring to mind Bill Swerski’s Superfans commiserating over $1.50 Old Styles. Same goes for the pizza, an exemplar of a regional style that gets far less love than its thicker counterpart. The crust is the key: cracker-thin and sturdy, of course, but with pastry-like flakiness (credit the addition of milk to the dough). When topped with a hefty portion of crumbly fennel-flecked sausage—or by nothing at all—it’s a simple treasure that eats so easily you could demolish half a pizza pie in a fugue state and still go back for another square. An everyday indulgence, perfected. 8433 S. Pulaski Rd., 773-735-2050