Venison tartare Photo: Jeff Marini

Jimmy Papadopoulos is the kind of chef who gets excited about a fridge full of dry-aging ducks. There’s one such appliance in the basement of Bellemore, one of the Boka Restaurant Group’s latest offerings, and Papadopoulos has used those ducks to make a wondrous dish: two slivers of breast (pink on the inside, caramel-colored and crackly on the outside) in nutty burnt honey, with fennel tendrils to break up the richness from the accompanying duck heart crepinette tucked inside a bed of farro. It’s almost as beautiful as the dining room itself, all wide open spaces and pink velvet (inspired, says designer Karen Herold, by the idea of “an old mansion where the grandkids moved in”). Multiple sommeliers preside over the libations with panache, as effervescent as the glass of Ruinart Blanc de Blancs that comes gratis with your wedge of $68 oyster-and-caviar pie.