From far left: bulgogi; Dak sauce wings; spicy barbecue pork bowl Photo: Jeff Marini

When this magazine set out on a mission a few years back to find the greatest chicken wings in the city, it jarred a few readers that the winner was not a Buffalo-proud sports bar but this diminutive Korean joint. These wings are minor works of art‚ dredged in a secret-formula spiced flour before being regular-fried, pressure-fried, and then regular-fried again, in canola oil to maximize the nooks and crannies of crispiness. The wings are made to order, which means you’ll likely end up waiting longer than it takes to eat them, but the relatively short time during which you’re devouring them is transcendent. The sticky-tangy soy sauce glaze clings to every bit of the wings without turning them soggy halfway through. You’ll be licking your fingers for a while afterwards, trying to extract every last iota of flavor, lost in pure, feral pleasure.