Scallops Photos: Jeff Marini

Fusion is no longer a dirty word in the able hands of husband-wife chefs Beverly Kim and Johnny Clark, who marry unlikely ingredients to create a one-of-a-kind Korean-American culinary hybrid. Think plates of bing bread (a riff on a potato loaf, studded with the bacon-and-chive accoutrements of a stuffed baked potato), oysters swimming in a soju granita, and bibimbap adorned with fiddlehead ferns and escargots. Like we said, fusion can be good. The beverage list is equally boundary pushing—pear vermouth is a favorite, as is a mocktail made with juniper and peas—and its pleasures help turn the dining room, on an otherwise desolate stretch of Elston Avenue, into a bustling party.

Coffee-cured cobia