The next time you’re ready to commit to securing a spot in that interminable queue at Brendan Sodikoff’s moodily lit diner, resist the urge to order the burger that everyone else is eating and turn your attention instead to the fried bologna sandwich. At this point, just about anyone in town can make a great, if not exceptional, cheeseburger. But nobody else is working the same magic on humble bologna. Made in-house, it’s fried on the griddle, piled preposterously high on a bun, and lavished with cheese and Dijonnaise. It may be the only thing on the menu — and in this city — that’s actually worth a four-hour wait.