The handcrafted pastas at the Italian Village’s newly rejuvenated spot rotate constantly, but chef Emily Phillips’s playful deftness with subtle flavors remains a constant. Witness the ingredients in her rigatoni dish: At first glance you can’t tell the sautéed figs from the morels, but the former accentuates the braised pulled duck meat with sweetness, and the latter imparts an earthy power. Every bite is a paprika-spiced, hazelnutcrunchy surprise.