Jeong opened with a bang in April, with much of the noise emanating from diners applauding the tasting menu’s salmon course. Chef Dave Park’s brilliant play on hwe (basically Korean sashimi) turns the fish into a gorgeous tartare, which he layers with tiny bubu arare (toasted rice orbs) and thick kisses of crème fraîche. There’s a citrusy yuzu undertone to it all, which, when cut with the richness of doenjang (fermented soybean paste), creates something entirely new.