Nothing is as it seems on Yugen’s ultraluxe tasting menu. Instead of presenting the standard umami-heavy Japanese egg custard, chef Mari Katsumura offers an uni-infused fantasia that serves as a base for a velvety Hudson Valley foie gras ganache, Santa Barbara uni tongues, fried kombu, and apple chips. Smoked foie gras fat — yes, that is a thing that exists — paints it all with a dark, rich patina.