The 12-year-old father-son operation specializes in one thing: birria, the fragrant Jaliscan goat-meat stew. It’s not as if they really need to do much else, considering how intoxicating their take on it is: Organic goat meat (butchered in-house by the Zaragozas themselves) is steam-cooked, marinated in a deep, multilayered mole until it practically collapses, and then roasted, its savory tangles of tender meat ready to be sopped up with housemade tortillas. It’s enough to convert even the staunchest of goat-meat skeptics.