This neighborhood anchor embraces a dual identity as both an old-school Chicago tavern slinging Malört shots and a restaurant dishing some of the most soul-satisfying vegetarian and vegan food in the city. It’s the kind of place that serves breakfast until 3 p.m., which also happens to be the cutoff point for ordering this giant, juicy-crisp breaded mushroom cap. It arrives in a moat of collard greens and pepper-flecked mashed potatoes and is topped with a bleeding fried egg and a jalapeño cream gravy you’ll obsess over.