Quail can sometimes feel a bit spartan, but in chef Mark Steuer’s hands it goes from scrawny to brawny. A pair of juicy, golden-brown legs soak in a hearty corn soubise sparked with tart peach relish and tingly Fresno pepper, sending your taste buds sideways. The little bird’s skin is neither crispy or soft, but instead exists in an uncannily delicious limbo in between.