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FRIED JAPANESE TILEFISH AND CAVIAR
at Kyoten

LOGAN SQUARE

Amadai (Japanese tilefish) is a luxury in Kyoto that often gets pickled and grilled. But Otto Phan deep-fries it, scales and all, basically turning the fish into cracklings, which he crowns with caviar and horseradish before placing it directly into your hand. It feels dangerously fragile, but it hits your tongue with the force of a lightning bolt.

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