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A5 MIYAZAKI WAGYU
at Oriole

WEST LOOP

Chicagoans like their steak to err on the side of excess (for proof, see the big ol’ rib eye on page 83). But this dish is proof that there’s beauty in restraint, too: Noah Sandoval presents a two-bite slice (three, if you’re feeling particularly dainty) of exquisitely marbled Japanese beef more or less alone on the plate. Rarely does this much flavor — a rush of minerality giving way to the concentrated essence of iron and fat — come in such a cruelly small package.

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