at Rica Arepa
Arepas are at their best when they’re pried open like Pac-Man’s maw and unabashedly overstuffed with warm, juicy ingredients that naturally want to squish together. Consider the pabellón arepa served at this charmer. It’s a one-handed version of the Venezuelan meal called pabellón criollo: saucy shredded beef with black beans and ripe plantain. Topped with a healthy flurry of grated queso blanco and a little ají sauce, it’s an achievement in thoughtfully executed maximalism.