Second Life

Duck Inn-do hot dog

When we last saw John Avila, he was slinging Indonesian food at Minahasa in Revival Food Hall. The chef built a fan base there for beautifully seasoned dishes, but slow traffic forced him to close. It always felt like his food deserved its own space, which it now has in Rendang Republic, a counter-service spot … Read more

Crust Fund’s Royko Pizza

Crust Fund’s Royko Pizza

If you ask John Carruthers, the best Friday pizza night starts on Monday morning. That’s because the tavern-style crust he’s perfected as the creator of home-based Crust Fund Pizza owes its cracker crunch to a dayslong cold dough fermentation followed by a 12-hour cure. “The cure dries the dough and ensures a crispy crust and … Read more

Best Place for Pretending You’re in Moscow, Circa 1995

If you engage Russian-born Yana Khernburg in conversation, either inside her restaurant and bar or perhaps outside as she harangues passersby to come in, you might get a breathless monologue like the one I received one night: “I opened my barbershop here in 2020 right as the pandemic started but the shutdown rules allowed barbershops … Read more