In January, during the second indoor dining stoppage, this La Grange café landed a lockdown miracle: Turns out, people go bananas for a messy, brothy, cilantro-and-onion-flecked taco secreted out the back door. The very first day Milkstop started making its clandestine quesabirrias, word of mouth drew a line that curved around the block, a pattern that repeated itself for weeks. These days, eating in restaurants might be back, but the quesabirria (piled with shreds of adobo-braised goat and beef from Slagel Family Farm and accompanied by containers of consommé and salsa for dipping) continues: Bring $5 cash and knock on the back door. (No, they won’t turn you away if you come in the front.) 700 W. Burlington Ave., La Grange