I have journeyed across the country in search of the best smoked meats: to Texas for brisket, Kansas City for burnt ends, South Carolina for whole hog, Memphis for smoked bologna, the South Side for rib tips. And in my meaty travels, I’ve never encountered anything like El Boxcar ($32) at Boxcar BBQ, a takeout-only joint that Phillip Foss and Akiko Moorman of the Michelin-starred El Ideas opened after their restaurant temporarily closed during the pandemic. They’re serving a giant bone-in beef rib that’s so tender, so infused with umami, that it may have ruined me for all other ribs. It’s encrusted with black peppercorns, which adds crunch and heat, and basted with a sauce that has tang from vinegar, sweetness from brown sugar, savoriness from black garlic, and bitterness from coffee extract. These combine for a flavor that’s so complex there’s only one way to wrap your head around it — by taking another bite. 2419 W. 14th St., Douglas Park