This restaurant can’t seem to make up its mind what it offers. It serves lunch, then not, then brings it back again (it’s available on Saturdays). A happy hour, then not. A tasting menu, then not. But what hasn’t changed is the robust point of view of chefs Tom Rogers (pictured below, on the left) and Adam McFarland (on the right), who make every dish on their oft-changing menu seem familiar. In late winter, they broke out a salad that stacked endives, pistachios, Sumo citrus, ricotta salata, and dill fronds on an anchoring swoosh of black garlic yogurt. In early spring, they had a bowl of housemade rigatoni with morels, toasted breadcrumbs, fat curls of tangy aged Parm, and a sheer coating of suave beurre blanc that provided a “light” sauce to luxuriate in. Their ability to layer flavors without complicating them is a gift. Owen Huzar’s wine list is a treat, and he pops open great Burgundies to pour by the glass. And — huzzah! — John’s now takes reservations and has stepped away from the fully counter-service ordering model. You can now order at the table or in advance — just be sure you include the best french fries in the universe.

Price: $$$
Address: 2114 N. Halsted St.
Website: johnsfoodandwine.com