Nhu Lan’s Vietnamese menu, illuminated on screens behind the counter, lists more than 20 varieties of banh mi sandwiches, and the one labeled No. 1 gets top billing for good reason. Its stack of meat and pâté, its fresh and pickled vegetables, and its slick of yellow mayo sit cold in a warm roll, and when you take a bite, that temperature differential thrills. Whichever of the 20 fillings you try — maybe the sweet Chinese char siu pork, or the firm lemongrass tofu sliced as thin as Steak-umms, or the fried fish, or the honey sausage — count on a rush of flavor and so many crisp textures your brain will perform a hard reboot. I’m working my way down the list, and though the one with sardines in tomato sauce may be my last, I bet it will be good. 

Price: $
Address: 2612 W. Lawrence Ave., Ravenswood; 4810 N. Sheridan Rd., Uptown
Website: nhulan-chicago.com