When executive chef-owner Sangtae Park opened this restaurant nearly three years ago, he was importing an idea that had taken root in his native Korea: that of a beef omakase in which guests sat at counters as chefs grilled before them, offering essentially a tour of a cow’s musculature. Back then, I found the meal too fussy and expensive. Park has since lowered the price significantly and worked with executive chef Alex Ching, an Oriole alum, to make changes to the menu. They introduced more seafood and even pork to the evening’s progression, while keeping the meal’s most dramatic and delicious moments focused on wagyu beef. Their composed dishes highlight this meat’s unique succulence. Both the rare tenderloin with bone marrow miso and crisp slivers of fresh heart of palm and the Japanese A5 with pineapple kimchi elicit mmmmm sounds up and down the counter. The beverage program rocks, and whether you’re into aged soju, grower Champagne, or single-vineyard Ridge Zinfandel, there’s a lovely glass with your name on it.

Price: $$$$$
Address: 651 W. Washington Blvd.
Website: bonyeonchicago.com