Say! I do like jibaritos! And I would eat them on a boat, and I would eat them with a goat. Omar Cadena, who owns this fantastic dining installation — essentially a stationary food truck in a color-drenched courtyard — takes this invented-in-Chicago Borinqueño specialty and runs with it. Of the various ingredients he stacks between two planks of fried plantain (Cuban ropa vieja, mojo-marinated pulled pork), the best is the battiest: crunchy curls of cornmeal-fried catfish, spicy green garlic spread, and an Ecuadorian salsa criolla that sings with the flavor of lime. I snuck a bite of my to-go order in the car and had to park to finish the whole thing. His tiny kitchen also produces killer sandwiches and empanadas, but the sleeper star is a long-simmered chicken and garbanzo soup that’s modest yet packs a huge personality — much like the café itself.

Price: $
Address: 3801 W. Fullerton Ave.
Website: omarcitos.com