After 10 years, there’s little wiggle room on Sarah Grueneberg’s brilliant menu. Fans would revolt if they made it through the reservation gauntlet and then couldn’t get their Burrata e ham, their wagyu skewers (such crisp, fatty goodness), their cacio whey pepe (does a better version exist?), or their whole bird chicken parm, which is a witty, chicken sausage-stuffed cutlet that everyone in the restaurant can tell you she invented to beat Bobby Flay on television. Meanwhile, Grueneberg (pictured above, on the left) has passed the torch to executive chef Bailey Sullivan (on the right) — a Top Chef finalist and James Beard Award nominee who’s trying to establish her own voice. Sullivan has added dishes such as a gorgeous plate of celeriac ravioli with rabbit ragu, and she’s clearly a talent to watch. Look for the day when her imprint on the menu is stronger; until then, keep ordering your favorites.

Price: $$$
Address: 1020 W. Madison St.
Website: monteverdechicago.com