The geographic region most likely to have a profound effect on world dining culture in coming years is — hear me out — Eastern Europe. Yes, its culinary character has been informed by uncompromising weather, Soviet domination, poverty, and, well, gallons of watery borscht. But peel back the layers like onion skins from a Ukrainian Easter egg to reveal its potential. Johnny Clark and Beverly Kim offer an in-depth exploration of the heart of Eastern Europe — the Ukraine of Clark’s grandmother — at this restaurant staffed largely by displaced Ukrainians. Hearty Old World dishes get a chic update, like the cabbage rolls stuffed with crayfish in a bisque-like sauce and the chicken Kiev that gushes emerald herb butter. You start with snacks chosen from a rolling zakusky cart and shots of vodka infused with, say, horseradish or sea buckthorn. Then it’s time for duck borscht and a drink. The wines come mostly from Eastern Europe, including bottles from Slovenia, Hungary, and Georgia — places that are having a wine renaissance — but there’s also an off-dry sparkling white from the besieged Ukrainian region of Bakhmut. Culture finds a way to thrive.

Price: $$$
Address: 3472 N. Elston Ave.
Website: anelyarestaurant.com