Obélix takes its name from a character in a much-loved French comic book series about pratfall-prone Gauls, the not-quite-civilized forebears of the French. When the restaurant opened in 2022, this name foregrounded the broadly imaginative, unstuffy reinterpretation of French bistro fare by chef-owner Oliver Poilevey and crew. They started with a foie gras taco and have only upped the stunt luxury since. The fun house menu today features a fried cod sandwich prepared as a precise replica of McDonald’s Filet-O-Fish (on a sadly stale bun the day I tried it), a foie corndog, and a $145 caviar sandwich. Thank goodness for the more classic stylings, including an always great dry-aged duck breast and a brilliant lineup of daily specials. One night, that included a buttery heap of French white asparagus, morels, and trout roe with plenty of sopping bread. The house pâtés are among the finest around, and Courtney Kenyon’s desserts always impress. This restaurant occasionally needs fine-tuning but has heart to spare. 

Price: $$$$
Address: 700 N. Sedgwick St.
Website: obelixchicago.com