Rare is the fine-dining restaurant that works this hard to appeal to all guests, no matter what their tastes or dietary restrictions demand. Every night, Sujan Sarkar proposes four distinct tasting menus at his serene but unstuffy spot: nonvegetarian, vegetarian, pescetarian, and vegan. Each takes you on an eight-course adventure of dishes that will taste familiar if you know Indian cuisine at all, yet have been altered in ways that render them new. Dhokla, a savory steamed chickpea sponge cake, is transformed into a textural ringer for a melt-in-your-mouth Aero bar, but one that tastes of mustard and curry leaf, not chocolate. Pani puri release a burst of passionfruit water. These fun modernist bites rouse your palate for, say, scallop cafreal in a spicy Goan paste with caviar, or a gourmet version of chicken makhani served alongside rich black lentil dal and garlic naan still steamy from the tandoor. As intricate as the food is, this meal, at $155 for the nonvegetarian, costs less than comparable tasting menus around town, rendering it all the more remarkable.

Price: $$$$$
Address: 217 W. Huron St.
Website: indiennechicago.com