Jonathan Goldsmith wants to give you a piece of focaccia. He’ll hand you one to nosh on while you’re waiting in the vestibule for a seat or at a table for your pizza. He’s a sweet soul, and this warmly lit spot, with its mustard-yellow walls and wooden tables, is a sweet neighborhood restaurant — the kind of place I always wish were close enough to walk to. Goldsmith has kept things simple — the menu consists of some snacks and salads and a whole lot of Neapolitan-style pizza. These pies arrive properly unsliced so you can attack them with a knife and fork as Italians do, or use the provided pizza wheel. The puttanesca pizza, with sharp anchovies, oil-cured olives, and fat capers against a base of milky fior di latte mozzarella, is balm for the soul, particularly with a glass of a rustic southern Italian red wine. The crust, well seasoned and blistery from the oven, can sometimes be too dense. Nonetheless, the flavor of generosity and craft is immeasurable. 

Price: $$
Address: 1769 W. Sunnyside Ave.
Website: spaccanapolipizzeria.com