Defenders of subtlety, look away: This sandwich — a Bridgeport classic since it was introduced in 1946 — is a two-fister with zero nuance. It’s a big ol’ heap of thinly pounded, breaded skirt steak dunked in a red gravy that quickly eliminates the meat’s crispness and softens the roll, fusing the whole thing into a sloppy flavor bomb. Add some hot giardiniera for a little welcome heat, and some mozzarella, because there’s no point in half-assing it. $9.99; 252 W. 26th St., Bridgeport