Still humming beautifully after 21 years, chef Jason Hammel’s Lula Cafe is the matriarch of Logan Square’s dining scene, and this warming, Greek-inflected tangle of noodles has been on the menu since day one, holding strong as the winds of seasonal cooking have shifted around it. Aptly enough, the dish is an ode to co-owner Amalea Tshilds’s grandmother. The browned butter, the touch of cinnamon, the toasted garlic, the tender feta — this pasta classic tastes like a hug from your own nana. $14; 2537 N. Kedzie Blvd., Logan Square