As you wait to place your order at this venerated fish shack by the Calumet River in the southernmost part of Chicago, you can picture what was: the barges plying the water, the steel plants churning, the European immigrant workers lined up to grab a quick lunch of fried or smoked chubs, pike, or walleye. Today you can order some decent fried shrimp, but you’re here for the meaty salmon steaks that were hung in the adjacent smokehouse overnight. That garlic-pepper fish, flaky and studded with spice, is delicious however you want to eat it, but it’s best simply forked onto a Saltine cracker. If you know, you know. $16.89/pound; 3295 E. 95th St., South Deering