In the 1980s, Nai Tiao, an ethnic Chinese immigrant from Korea, adapted a recipe from back home called gam poong gi, creating a way-too-easy-to-eat classic. The fat, exquisite nubbins of juicy meat at the end of the bone of each of these drumettes makes them perfect for sauce drenching, and the three or four bites you get from each lollipop hit the textural sweet spot between the tug of a regular chicken wing and the chunkiness of Chinatown-style orange chicken. The “regular spicy” sauce seduces everyone; even those who initially find it too sweet or too spicy won’t stop, can’t stop. The “extra spicy” is a more serious business. $16.99; 3253 W. Lawrence Ave., Albany Park