If you’ve dined in Greektown in the past five decades, you’ve seen it: A slice of brandy-drenched kefalotyri cheese, set aflame at your table with a cry of “Opa!” before being extinguished with a squeeze of lemon. Crispy, gooey saganaki isn’t a Greek import; it was invented at Chicago’s now-closed Parthenon restaurant. Other places in the neighborhood have kept the theatrical tradition alive, most winningly at Greek Islands, a Greektown classic in its own right that opened in 1971 and has since added a Lombard location. $7.75; 200 S. Halsted St., Greektown; 300 E. 22nd St., Lombard