There are 20 kinds of bánh mì on the menu here, and while you won’t go wrong with any of them, there’s an exalted place in the Chicago sandwich pantheon for the Nhu Lan Special (it’s No. 1 on the menu). An airy, crackly baguette, baked on the premises, is smeared with pork pâté and a swipe of mayo, layered with ham and head cheese, and finished with shredded pickled daikon and carrots, cilantro, cucumber, and jalapeños. A single bite delivers a symphonic chord of salty, sour, umami, and sweet notes. $7.50; 2612 W. Lawrence Ave., Ravenswood; 4810 N. Sheridan Rd., Uptown