Unlike the volcano it’s named after, this old-school dish — typically roasted chicken with peas and potatoes in a winey pan gravy — doesn’t normally deliver fireworks. But the Village, the nearly century-old red-sauce temple downtown, breathed life into the shopworn classic by roasting a tender skin-on half chicken to order and leaving the peas out. This is the real deal — you’ll want to strip the bones dry and mop up every last bit of sauce, which is loaded with garlic, white wine, and oregano, with the crisp potato wedges, which have been browned in the pan juices. Old-school never tasted so good. $27.50; 71 W. Monroe St., Loop